Slip Stitch – In Stitches Tutorial, Vol 1
Front Loop Only Slip Stitch – In Stitches Tutorial, Vol 1
The fabric you make from front loop only slip stitches, or in crochet abbreviation lingo “FLO sl st”, is durable and stretchy at the same time. It is the perfect stitch for a waistband, sleeve cuff, neckline, sweater hem; even a dishcloth, trivet or potholder. When I say stretchy, let me clarify that a bit. I used a worsted weight yarn and a US I / 9 (5.50mm) hook for my sample. When stretched, my fabric had a 2″ positive ease. What does a positive ease mean in “laymen’s terms”… Well as an example, if you were making a beanie hat with a worsted weight yarn and an I-size crochet hook and needed the band to fit a head circumference of 22″, you would crochet the front post single crochet piece to a circumference of 20”. The stitch itself, I find can be a bit tedious at times; however, I’ll give you a couple of tips to make it zip right along. You’ll love the results of the front loop only slip stitch.
First begin with your foundation chain, then insert your hook into the 2nd chain from the hook, yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook – you’ve just completed your first slip stitch. Continue the slip stitch in every chain back to your 1st chain. Chain 1 and turn in a counter clockwise fashion.
Your second row is the technique row of the front loop only slip stitch. All subsequent rows are worked in the same manner until you reach your desired dimension. See the photo below for a top view, showing where that front loop lies.
Work your first slip stitch into the same space as your turning chain. Insert your hook into the front loop only of that stitch, yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook.
Your second and subsequent stitches are worked in the same manner as your first stitch of the row; insert hook into the front loop only, yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook.
It is fairly common to unknowingly tighten your tension when working with front loop only slip stitches. You want to avoid doing this. Your stitches should be made with a rather loose, even tension. My tip to help you keep a loose tension, is to make sure you have a good amount of working yarn pulled from your skein or ball and “at the ready” to be worked. This way, you’re not constantly having to pull yarn, inadvertently tightening your stitch, and your tension will remain more even.
To help you get into a smooth, easy rhythm when working your front loop only slip stitches, try turning your work vertically as shown in the photo below. I find that this orientation not only helps with an even tension, but also aids in a smooth pull through in one swift draw of the hook without having to contort your wrist in an uncomfortable motion.
Placement of your last stitch of the row can sometimes be confusing (there’s a lot going on, on the selvage edges). See the photo below with the arrow pointing to the loop you place your hook into, yarn over, and pull through both loops. By working into that horizontal loop for your last stitch only of the row, will result in a tidy selvage edge. Having a nice, even selvage edge enables you to easily work new rows or rounds of other stitch combinations into the edge.
I hope you’ve enjoyed this edition of “In Stitches”. Don’t forget to securely subscribe to this blog by adding your email to the subscribe box (top right corner or bottom left corner of this page) and confirm your subscription, so you never miss a post from The Hooked Haberdasher!
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Posted on August 24, 2015, in "In Stitches" Crochet Tutorial, CROCHET TIP, tutorial and tagged crochet, crochet front loop only slip stitch, crochet slip stitch, crochet stitch tutorial, front loop only slip stitch tutorial, Furls, furls crochet candy shop hook, furls crochet hook, in stitches tutorial, slip stitch, the hooked haberdasher, wendy bickford. Bookmark the permalink. Leave a comment.